The fashion big guns were out in full force yesterday as London Fashion Week saved the best til last. We saw a poetic collection from red carpet favourite, Antonio Berardi as he married the practicality of winter with the romance of spring, taking into account the unpredictability of our British weather. Metallic brocade jackets, oversized duster coats, full skirts and striped organza floated down the catwalk effortlessly.
Christopher Kane took stock of the recent passing of his college mentor, Louise Wilson OBE and produced his most personal collection to date, inspired by old photos from his past. The result was silk skirt suits, drawstrings, peek-a-boo waists and rope in an array of wintry hues. It had a decisively sombre tone but remained chic and oh so sexy.
Over at Erdem, it was as though we’d stepped into the Dark Forest as moody botanicals took centre stage amongst Gothic lace and sleeveless tweed. Oversized feather dresses fluttered within the conservatory like exotic birds whereas banana plants adorned figure-hugging midi’s.Any drama was dually muted with boyish brogues and unkempt plaited manes, giving an undone Victorian feel.
It was a disco jungle at Giles as snakes, giant claws and exotic animals made a dramatic appearance across jumper dresses, full-skirted gowns and silk slips. Opening the show with a preppy array of pink and navy stripes, things took a surprisingly wild turn, as animal print took on a whole new meaning. Pink was the default colour with smatterings of metallics, monochrome and slinky slivers thrown in for good measure.
Issa’s fit and flare dresses, favoured by the Duchess of Cambridge, were reinvented and tweaked for their SS15 collection without causing too much offence. Designer, Blue Farrier told Vogue.com “We were inspired by Pop Art prints, but I really wanted to find a way to do it that was interesting and new.” With the theme of “movement” in mind, it was a cleansing monochrome palette with touches of raspberry and apricot in wobbled prints and steady blocks of colour.Perhaps a little too daring for Kate, but sure to delight a new generation of Issa customers.
When Jonathan Saunders does femininity, you know you’re in for more than something pink and glossy. Instead, you’re going to get oversized bows teamed with androgynous silhouettes, pinched waists teamed with voluptuous bubble skirts in toffee, teal and black. It sure was sweetness and light, but in a Jonathan Saunders kind of way.